Press Articles
Michael Buerk's Passion for Argentina
Publication: Telegraph TravelDate: March 20, 2010
Author: Michael Buerk
"Argentina has to be one of the most underated travel destinations," according to Michael Buerk. From the subtropical rainforests of the North to the glaciers of Cape Horn, a snowball's throw from Antarctica and all of the 2000 miles in between, Argentina is "a world in one country". Stretching from the West Coast to the Andes, the endless pampas plains host real cowboys making "Wyatt Earp look like a mincing pantywaist compared with the average gaucho".
And at the heart of it all is Buenos Aires, one of the world's most exciting cities. Michael was posted there whilst reporting on the Falklands War for the BBC and looks back on the dangers in terms of epicurean excess rather than war wounds. In spite of a turbulent history, the flames of protest have now dwindled to a dim flicker: "The cause still rankles but the war is an embarrassment," he explains. Buenos Aires is a grand city - wide cafe-lined avenues, Italian restaurants, tango shows, and lashings of culture. But you have to watch out for those grand hotels whose grandeur does not extend beyond the lobby, he warns.
"There's no substitute for a travel company that really knows Argentina. I travelled with Cazenove & Loyd whose guides were the best I have had anywhere"
Michael's favourite hotel was the luxurious and stylish Sofitel in BA's Mayfair but he also recommeded Legado Mitico, an exclusive boutique hotel in the trendy district Palermo, and enjoyed the Faena Hotel and Universe, a converted granary on the waterfront of Puerto Madero, which has been done up in 21st century baroque glamour.
A couple of hours North by plane, the Iguacu Falls is one of the natural wonders of the world. Whether looking down on them in a helicopter or looking up at them from a boat, the falls continually inspire a sense of wonder. "You have to see the Falls from both sides," Michael advises, "Brazil has the shock-and-awe panorama. Argentina the heart-stopping pathways over the cataracts." Michael stayed at the Hotel das Cataratas, the only luxury hotel in the park for high end travelers, which has been taken over and refurbished by Orient-Express. Situated inside the park, it offers an unmissable opportunity to enjoy the falls all to yourself in the mornings and evenings. Moving on to the rainforest, Michael headed for the peace and quiet of Posada Puerto Bemberg, a friendly family-run lodge with views over the Parana river - the perfect place to reflect on the fact that "you have seen only a corner of Argentina [...]and will have to come back."
THIS IS ONLY A SUMMARY OF THE ARTICLE. FOR THE COMPLETE PIECE BY MICHAEL BUERK PLEASE REFER TO THE TELEGRAPH TRAVEL SUPPLEMENT, SATURDAY MARCH 20TH, 2010, PP 1-3
