Witches Brew
Jo Mollet, Destination Expert.
A visit to Luang Prabang isn’t quite complete without a stroll around the local market, just outside town. Everything you can imagine – and a few things you really can’t - is bought and sold, bartered and bagged here – it's a place where as a visitor, you can really take the pulse of local life.
My guide Vieng seems to know every corner of this place, and we stroll past stalls selling banks of colourful herbs and spices, knots of untamed vegetables, dried foods and fresh noodles. Cheap Chinese imports and traditional woven baskets vie for attention amongst live ducks, rows of gleaming Mekong fish and strings of flower garlands. It's noisy and it's hot, but the market buzzes in the early morning sun.
Vieng points out a stall where a tiny old lady sits before an extraordinary array of outlandish objects. We wander over to get a closer look – she is selling traditional medicines. With theatrical gesturing and Vieng translating, I learn about the different beliefs and properties associated with each strange looking herb, bark and potion. It's amazing how we begin to understand each other but I feign ignorance when this friendly sorceress points towards an amber coloured bottle and offers me a tot. Laughing and joking she insists, this potion “banishes illness from the blood” and I find I can’t resist the twinkle in her eye.
I discover that “one for the road” at a Laos market means something quite different. I’m guaranteed this is medicine but as the fiery liquid descends into my belly I silently pray my stomach is up to the challenge.
I’m expecting a disaster but amazingly, the moment passes and I open my eyes to more laughter and slightly disbelieving looks all round. Our friendship is sealed. This witches brew may be nothing more than a blend of herbs somewhat pickled in alcohol but as I leave the magic continues to work, I’m happy and contented. I smile at Vieng and thank him for showing me the closer side of the market.
